Different types of kimono - part 1

There are many different types of kimono, each defined by its sleeve length, the pattern, the flow of the pattern, the colour, and many other various factors. I do not claim to know all of them, but I will seek to post as much about each type as I know.

Over the next few weeks, I will be slowly defining and identifying the few types I do know of. Please enjoy!

Furisode

Furisode is the most formal of kimono which may be worn by a young unmarried woman. In the past, most women married young. However, in modern life, most women do not marry until their late twenties. As such, it is generally accepted that a woman may wear furisode until she turns 25. I am not sure how widely known this 'rule' is, but I don't think I'll follow it :P

Furisode literally means 'swinging sleeves'. This is because of the length of its sleeves, which may range from knee-length to ankle-length. When a woman walks, the long sleeves swing in the wind, and is said to have been created to attract a man's attention (riiiiight).

In the pictures I have posted, I particularly like the last two, as they are Disney kimono. The fourth one is based on Snow White, while the last one is an accurate sketch of the Sleeping Beauty-themed kimono. I would absolutely love for one of these, only they cost ￥630 000 each! And that's only the furisode - no obi, no juban, nothing! *shivers* I want that for my 21st birthday.....

Oh well, till next week then! ^_^

-The Disney kimono pictures were actually screenshots of a slideshow. I cannot find the website anymore - if someone out there knows it, please send it to me! Thanks

Different types of obi

There are many different types of obi that can be worn with kimono. However, the type of obi used would correspond with the formality of the situation and the type of kimono to be worn.

Hanhaba obi
Hanhaba obi is the most casual type of obi (after heko obi) and is usually worn with yukata, particularly if it is one of the 'cheap' ones made of polyester. If a hanhaba obi is nice enough (such as the one shown below, made of silk), it may be worn with a very casual komon. In my opinion, hanhaba obi is the easiest to tie as it does not require any obi makura or obi age, and only rarely needs an obijime, and even some of the more complicated bows are simpler than tying a normal otaiko.

The name 'hanhaba' means 'half width' which indicates its narrowness (anything between 15 and 17cm). It is called so because it is half the width of any other obi.



Nagoya obi
Nagoya obi is an obi which has two widths - one wide part, where it measures 30cm, and is used for the otaiko (drum) bow that is so commonly seen on kimono, and one narrow strip, measuring 15cm, which is used to wrap around the torso. The narrow length is achieved by folding the obi and stitching it into place, with just enough of the wide strip to form an otaiko bow. Each nagoya obi usually measures between 300cm and 400cm.

Nagoya obi is the one you see most on women. This is because it is the easiest to use to tie otaiko, and is perfect for everyday wear in that sense. Also, most nagoya obi are decorated with patterns suitable for such use (no auspicious motifs, etc).


Fukuro obi
Fukuro obi is the second most formal obi. It is very commonly used when wearing furisode (long-sleeved kimono). While it cannot be seen in this photo, the fukuro obi is not the most formal as only 60% of one side is decorated. The underside and a part of the obi which will be hidden as it is wrapped around the torso are left plain. This makes the obi less heavy and the lack of intricate work all over allows for lower prices, making fukuro obi a very popular option for formalwear.

Fukuro obi are usually around 30cm in width, and over 400cm long. The extra length is needed in order to tie the intricate bows one sees on furisode.


Maru obi

Maru obi is the most formal type of obi. Its dimensions and formality level are the same as the fukuro obi, yet unlike its alternative, it is embroidered and decorated everywhere on its surface, thus making it heavy and expensive. This type of obi is usually used in weddings, although it can be worn in any other instance a fukuro obi is needed. The only real difference when it is worn would be its weight.

Tsuke obi
Tsuke obi is also known as 'easy' obi. This is because the obi comes in two parts. One is the narrow strip which is used to tie around the waist, and another is the bow which comes already pre-tied for you! All one needs to do is hook in the bow to the narrow strip and tie the strings around one's torso (and hide them) and voila! Instant obi.

In the case of otaiko obi, the tesaki is sewn to the side and has to be folded in and tied into place with an obijime, as well as having to add an obi makura and obiage.

I am certain there are other types of obi as well, but for now, that's all! Byebye!

What is zori?

All shoes worn with kimono are always thonged sandals, or a type of sandal, and with the exception of one particular type worn in the summer, they are always worn with tabi. The ones shown in the pictures above (which, incidentally, is my whole collection - not a very wide range, is it?) are called 'zori' and are most commonly worn with kimono.

The formality of the zori worn depends on the material it is made of, the colour, and the height of the heel. For example, a zori made of lacquered wood is casual as opposed to a zori made of leather. As with all things involved with kimono, the more metallic colours and gold and silver, the more formal. With regard to the height of a zori's heel, it is very similar to Western shoes in that the higher it is, the more formal. For example, a casual zori will only measure 1.5cm in height while a formal zori may measure up to 3cm in height.

It is considered fashionable for one's foot to be hanging over the end of the zori. Yes, it is as uncomfortable as it sounds, at least until you grow used to the sensation. If your foot is short, but fat, it is advisable for you to loosen the hanao (the strap) so that it does not press down on your foot too much. I made the mistake of not doing so, and had bruises on my foot for two weeks after.

What is koshihimo?

Koshihimo (pronounced koh-she-he-mow) are the long narrow strips of cloth with which you secure (tie) your kimono with. These are always hidden from view, and it is considered to be a major faux pas for it to be showing.

These handy little strings are very useful - not only are they used in tying your kimono, but they are also very useful (almost necessary in fact) when tying most obi styles! They can also be used to tie your sleeves up when doing housework so that the sleeves are not dirtied by water/oil/etc.

This item is one of the absolute musts to have when one wishes to wear kimono, even if it is the simple yukata.

What is juban?

Juban is a piece of clothing worn under the kimono, to protect it from body sweat, make up, etc. and is a vital piece in kitsuke. Juban come in an array of colours - red, white and pink, as seen above; there are also purple, blue and orange ones. The most popular colours, however, are shown above. Juban may also be patterned, whether it is woven into the cloth (like the white one above - it has clouds and streams and kiku woven into it) or dyed (the pink juban has a pattern of butterflies dyed all over it). Juban are never embroidered.

The juban is not noticeable when one wears kimono, except for the (usually) white bit just under the kimono collar, and behind openings in the sleeves. Therefore, it is not absolutely vital that the juban matches the kimono, although it is recommended. I, for one, have no qualms wearing a red juban underneath a white-and-green kimono, as shown by one of my previous posts. In fact, for me, I think that wearing such a contrasting colour may open up new areas of colour combinations, just like the set I was wearing in the post.

What is obijime?

Obijime is the cord that holds the entire obi, and by proxy the whole outfit together. It is usually a woven rope that can be in one solid colour, various different colours, or even patterned. There are also different levels of formality for obijime, depending on certain variants (thickness, type of weave, gold/silver, patterns, etc). The thicker an obijime is, the more formal. Also, if there are gold and silver threads in an obijime, it is instantaneously formal.

The position of an obijime in an outfit is shown as follows, circled in green:

My collection of obijime:

Word of the Week

白い しろ・い shiro.i
Meaning: white
Type: i-adjective
Word use: 白い帯 shiroi obi
Meaning: white obi
Symbolism: purity, cleanliness
Tidbits of knowledge: White is considered to be the second highest level of formality after black for kimono. Also, for tabi and han-eri, plain white is always more formal than patterned and coloured ones.

My newest white and gray obi:

White juban can be both formal and informal:

A large number of my kimono are white-based:

Lovely white-based kimono with pink sakura blossoms, from masuiwaya.co.jp:

What is obiage?

Obiage is the sash that covers the obimakura (a pillow that puffs up the obi and makes the bow look fuller) and keeps it in place on the obi. It is still visible from the front view of a person wearing kimono as the strip of cloth above the obi, as shown below, circled in green.

Picture taken from masuiwaya.co.jp

My collection of obiage (yes I sooooo need dark colours!):

Since I mentioned it, I thought I might as well show an obimakura:

Word of the Week

菊 きく kiku
Meaning: chrysanthemum
Type: noun
Season: autumn, winter

Kiku is a very popular motif for kimono items. You see it everywhere, on kimono, obi, juban, obiage, obidome, haneri.... In fact, I'm surprised at how few items I have with kiku on them, since I seem to see them everywhere! I do want to buy this lovely little piece from Yamatoku... Here's a peek (click on pic to go to page):

Not sure if I'll actually buy it.. I can probably win a furisode on eBay for $45! But still, it's a nice kimono. Not really a good length for me, but I can still make an ohashori with a 152cm kimono! I just recieved a perfect juban for it too... *grumbles* Anyway, here are other pictures featuring kiku in my kimono, though it's hard to see without detailed pictures! Will have to take some soon...

My new black obi with kiku and other plantlife:

My white kiku kimono; it fits well over my red juban:

Details of my white kiku kimono. The kiku is made via shibori (tie dye method). If you look closely, the weave pattern of the cloth is also kiku with twisting petals.

My newest furisode for late autumn/early winter:

I actually have a really nice photo of an obidome of a coral carved into kiku in one of my books but that's in London... We'll just have to wait till I get back to see it then! That's all for now, turrah!

Men's obi

There are two types of obi men wear. They are called 'kaku obi' and 'heko obi'.


Kaku obi are stiff obi that are generally very narrow (5-6cm in width) compared to women's obi and come in dark colours such as navy, brown and black. While it is not the only pale colour used by men, white is still the most commonly seen colour for light-coloured obi. There is usually very little decoration, except for a little decorative stitching in a contrasting colour (eg. navy obi with white stitches, white obi with black stitches, etc.). Men's obi are usually worn off-center in the back and quite low on the waist, below the stomach.^^ Kaku obi is very versatile, and can be used formally or informally. However, like kimono and women's obi, this is limited to the type of material the obi is made of. Silk is, as always, most formal, with hemp being the least formal (although I'm not entirely sure if there are any obi made from hemp).

Different samples of kaku obi*:

Men's obi tied kai-no-kuchi style, front and back view**:

Another method of tying kaku obi, katabasami style***:

Heko obi are obi made from soft fabric that is used for both genders and is usually tied in a simple bow, though there are more feminine variations for women's heko obi. As with kaku obi, men's heko obi are narrower than women's. Heko obi is very casual; I've only ever seen it worn with yukata.

Women's heko obi, various styles^:

Men's heko obi, back view***:

* - from Kyoto Kimono
** - from JP NET Kimono Hypertext
*** - from this Japanese website
^ - from BOKUNAN-DO
^^ - from Wikipedia

Word of the Week

紅葉 もみじ momiji

Meaning: (Japanese) maple
Type: noun
Explanation: Generally, non-Japanese use this word to describe maple leaves, as illustrated below.
Season: Autumn
Most commonly found in: kimono, obi

My red momiji kimono, and an upclose detailed picture:

The detailing on my red momiji and butterfly obi:

A red furisode with momiji patterns*:

* - again, this is an old picture and I do not have the source written down somewhere. In all likelihood, this is probably a kimono from a Japanese kimono rental website.

What is obi?

Okay, so I haven't really been updating >.> *bad bad bad girl!* I don't feel like apologising though :P I'm hooooome, and it's been fun!!! I've been going out to eat alot, and if you'll go to 'Knits and Nibbles' (my sister's flog) you'll get to see what we've been having :3 yum~

Alright alright on with the post.. I'm gonna post my make-ups of the past few weeks in their own posts all in one shot, okay? And I'm changing the date too to make it look like I'd actually posted on time!! XP Here goes..


What is obi?
Obi, (帯, おび), pronounced 'oh-bee', is the name for the various sashes worn with kimono that keep the robe in place on the body, and as decoration. Silk is the most traditional and most formal material for obi, and is thus more commonly found when one searches for vintage items. However, synthetic materials are becoming more and more popular for obi in this modern age, as it is cheaper and, in some cases, easier to handle and store than silk. The oldest synthetic obi I have comes from the 1970s period.*

Formal obi for women**:

Cute winter themed nagoya obi***:

Side-back view of otaiko obi**:

Back view of bunko-musubi on furisode****:
Back view of tateya-musubi on furisode****:

I will post the two different types of men's obi next week! The various types of women's obi may be posted separately and spread out over a few weeks.. I will also do posts of the different types of kimono! Maybe I'll also start a post on various ways of tying obi and post instructions? Lord knows I have countless books to scan from!! All I need now is just a scanner.. Or maybe even taking a picture of the page will do!! Hmmm, there's an idea...

I have noticed that I have only posted pictures of women in kimono and women's kimono. I can't really help the women's kimono bit since I don't have any men's kimono (save a couple of men's yukata I bought for my brother..), but I will try to include more of the men's aspect of kimono from now on!

Till next time~ Toodles!


* - from Wikipedia
** - I got these pictures off the Internet a long time ago, but I can't remember where they are from. If anyone knows, please tell me so I can link them and give them credit!
*** - from an old auction on Yahoo!Japan Auctions. I wanted to bid for it so badly!
**** - old pictures from furisode.joyful-eli.com

Word of the Week

Okay, so I'm busy with school and all, so I can't really update all that often. I was thinking I'll post mostly during the weekends (Friday, Saturday, Sunday) when school's on, and throughout the week during the holidays. I will keep posting each topic weekly though!

Today's topic is the Japanese word of the week! When I was studying Japanese (actually, I still am studying Japanese), I used to have a "word of the day" and I had to use the word at least once that day. So I thought to put up something similar here, only that the words would be kimono-related or one that you would hear frequently in conjunction with kimono. So here it is!

Word of the Week

赤 あか・い aka.i
Meaning: Red/Crimson

Type: i-adjective

Word use: 赤い着物 akai kimono
Meaning: Red kimono

Maiko Fukuteru in a dark red furisode*:

Another maiko in beautiful red furisode*:

Lovely aren't they? I've been looking to buy a nice dark red kimono to wear, and I did win one with black motifs a few days ago! Here's a little picture:

I can't wait to get it in the mail!! Hopefully it'll arrive before I go home for Christmas :P

Well, that's all for now!

* - Taken from the Immortal Geisha forums

What is kimono?

Alright I thought it'd be dull if I were to just post pictures once a week, so I thought that in between picture day, I'll add in little bits and pieces to help people understand what kimono are, what the little pieces are called, their sub-categories, etc.

Today's topic is the most basic: "What is kimono?"

Women in kimono (click on picture for WebSite)*

Kimono, 着物, (pronounced kee-mo-no) is the traditional clothing of Japan. The word itself is taken apart and analysed, it is found to basically mean "things to wear"; 着 ki = wear, 物 mono = things. Originally, kimono meant all types of clothing to wear. However, with the introduction of Western clothing, yofuku 洋服, it has come to mean the full length traditional garment of Japan worn by men, women and children of all ages.

Kimonos are T-shaped, straight-lined robes that fall to the ankle, with collars and wide, full-length sleeves. Kimonos are wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right and secured by an obi, which is tied at the back. Kimonos are generally worn with traditional footwear (especially geta and zori) and tabi.**

Parts of a kimono (taken from Wikipedia)

* - from JapaneseKimono
** - from Wikipedia